Motorcycle suspension

Upgrading your motorcycle suspension is one of the changes you feel from the very first mile: the wheel stays planted over bumps, the bike dives less under braking and it stops wallowing as you drive out of corners. Here you will find shocks, forks, cartridges and steering dampers for specific models, and what you need to know to choose well.

It sits within motorcycle engine and spare parts, alongside brakes, drivetrain and filters, and for now the whole range here comes from Öhlins, the Swedish suspension specialist.

What better suspension gives you

Stock suspension is set up for an average rider and average use. When it falls short you notice it: the rear bounces over motorway expansion joints, the front dives hard under heavy braking, the bike moves around with a pillion and luggage, or the bars get nervous when you accelerate over broken tarmac. Better suspension does not make the bike harsher, it makes it more controlled: it soaks up more and holds the bike better at the same time. That means more confidence, less fatigue on long trips and a tyre that works more evenly.

Front, rear and steering

• Motorcycle shock absorbers carry the rear: a monoshock on most modern bikes, a pair on many customs and classics, and the front suspension on some scooters too.
• Forks and fork cartridges look after the front end: a cartridge kit renews the internals of your fork, while a complete fork replaces the whole assembly.
• Steering dampers carry no weight: they calm sudden movements of the bars.

If you are upgrading one end only, start at the back: the stock rear shock tends to be the most limited part. Then bring the front up to the same standard so the bike stays balanced.

What decides the choice

• Bike, year and version: between generations of the same model, or between the standard and SP versions, mounting points, travel and lengths change, and so does the part number.
• The load the bike carries: your weight in full kit, plus a pillion and luggage if you often take them. That decides the rate of the spring.
• How you ride: commuting and two-up touring, mountain passes, track days or dirt trails call for different settings.

Preload, compression and rebound in a nutshell

Preload sets the spring's starting point: it lets you get the right amount of sag when you sit on the bike while keeping travel in reserve for bumps. Compression damping controls how fast the suspension compresses, and rebound damping how fast it extends again. Preload will not turn a soft spring into a stiff one, and good damping cannot rescue the wrong spring: that is why the spring is chosen first, to suit your weight, and the clickers are set afterwards.

Fitting and setting up

New suspension only performs as well as it is fitted and adjusted. Replacing a shock or opening a fork means supporting the bike safely, using special tools, the right oil and the manufacturer's torque settings, so a specialist suspension workshop is the sensible choice; it will also measure sag with your weight and leave you a base setting for the way you ride. After that, fine-tune one click at a time. If you are not sure which part number fits your bike or which spring you need, ask us on the chat with your model, your weight and how you use it.